Three Finger Drag Climbing Reddit. Search YouTube for Dave MacLeod videos on hangboarding. both were I

Search YouTube for Dave MacLeod videos on hangboarding. both were I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. How do we make our fingers strong? In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. Half crimp seemed the totally natural way to grab small edges, I had to practice 3 finger drag to give my fingers a break on longer fingery routes/problems. Along with point (1), long middle fingers affect the biomechanics of a 3f drag. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. If you want to hold small holds, you need strong fingers. (Photo: Tom Randall) How Many Fingers and Arms? Jun 7, 2019 · Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too slopey to crimp.

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